Sometimes the best secrets are the ones that are worst kept; following this ideology, we’re going to let the cat out of the bag about a certain hidden gem that lies nestled in the heart of the West End but is probably only known to a select few members of the artistic set. Until now.
The RIBA restaurant is situated on the 1st floor of the Royal Institute of British Architects (or 66 Portland Place to the layman and any hungry postal workers seeking an extravagant snack between shifts). As one of London’s Art Deco landmarks, one can expect the furnishings to be suitably chic, with half-moon booths surrounding an impressive installation of architectural designs that takes pride of place in the centre of the expansive, high-ceilinged room.
The staff are polite and charming, not to mention well versed in all things taste-orientated; even before the starters arrive the stakes are raised with the recommended slice of pumpernickel bread that contains small nuggets of viscid molasses speckling the sweet rye. The seared scallops are of an impressive size and served on a charcoal-black piece of slate, surrounded by candied hazelnuts and thin strips of crisped leek; the dusting of a black olive powder adds a further level of intrigue to what is already a complex dish and we show little hesitation in scraping slate plate clean. Ordering a pork belly as a starter may seem like a bold move, considering the meat’s reputation for stodginess, yet thankfully the emphasis here is on quality as opposed to quantity. A tender layer of meat lies beneath a perfectly crisp topping, which is exquisitely matched by slice of black pudding pie, held together by thin clippings of brittle filo pastry; a poached quince offers a soft counterpoint to the crunchy meat topping and completes the dish with aplomb.
With a tough act to follow, the mains do not disappoint; a roast guinea fowl supreme is artfully layered in a moat of thick juniper gravy, with roasted root vegetables placed like turrets surrounding a castle, with a beetroot dauphinoise serving as a drawbridge linking the gravy to the tangy bird. A braised Yorkshire venison with sautéed girolles challenges the guinea fowl’s throne for the culinary crown of the evening, with a wickedly addictive truffled mash holding the meat aloft and proud above a trickle of sweet, redcurrant-flecked jus. The meat itself falls apart at the touch of a fork, its consistency so tender that it seems to deliquesce in the mouth.
With just enough room to take on a dessert, we indulge in a kaffir lime and white chocolate bombe that is served in two solid chocolate shells covered in a chilli fruit salsa and coconut lime sauce; as tough as this is to break with a spoon, the results are more than worth it. A rum and vanilla pannacotta lies in a martini glass with a light almond shortbread rested across it rim the red wine plums offer a tart balance to the creamy pannacotta and the balsamic caviar that is sprinkled generously amongst the mousse is a welcome treat.
As a weekday restaurant, RIBA only opens in the evenings once on a Tuesday; next week it is playing host to a Valentine’s Day special that will send many a happy couple home with full stomachs and fond memories. Now remember, the restaurant’s arcaneness is only fun if you and your friends are in on the secret; so shhh…tell everyone.
www.architecture.com/RIBAVenues/RIBAVenues.aspx
Written By David Harfield
Date posted: 09/02/2012
Category: Events, News.
Tags: RIBA, Valentine's Day.
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