Have Yourself a Very Provencal Christmas
To name your restaurant after a brilliant but stubborn cinematic chef who refuses to cook for customers that he does not deem worthy of his talents seems to be a case of confidence bordering on cocky; however, to borrow a choice phrase from Muhammad Ali’s extensive self-promotional library of quotations, “It’s not bragging if you can back it up.”
Keeping its boxing puns in check, Blue Tomato stepped into the ring with the Chancery Lane restaurant to ascertain exactly what kind of punch the festive menu packed; would it lay us out for the count, or would we be throwing in the towel before the final round? (That’s enough now, we promise…) The restaurant’s décor is intimate yet relaxed, with an open plan kitchen over viewing the rows of tables and booths. The staff strike a pleasant balance between personable and professional as our waitress recommends a pair of traditional French aperitifs that include an intense farigoule thyme liqueur that coats the palate in its intoxicating infusion, working almost as an anti-cleanser, i.e. any flavours that may have been there before are wiped away.
The Provencal Christmas set menu features a choice of three options for each course; the foie gras ‘Noël en Provence’ comes with a citric jelly that is so pungent that it manages to cut through the richness of the pâté without detracting from the thick texture. A ‘Fondant Potimarron’ is served in an innovative style with the top of the vegetable carved off and left balanced on top, resembling a mini jack-o-lantern, which can be scooped into to reveal the chestnut and carrot-esque flavour that is spiced up with the addition of savory, which recollects the thyme notes of the farigoule.
The star of the main course has to be the grilled rump of venison, which is so tender that it quite literally melts in the mouth, as the chestnut polenta and confit quince compliment the meat with a vigour and intensity that can often be bereft of such ‘supporting’ dishes. The salt cod comes soaked in a creamy green olive sauce and salsify, which is a particularly brave decision on the chef’s part, considering both the Marmite-esque divide that olives can induce in patrons as well as the absence of any potatoes with which to absorb the pungency of the sauce. It’s a bold trick that is almost pulled off, with the addition of artfully carved roasted shallots that add weight to the lightness of the fish; true to form, you will either love it or hate it. A natural wine from Corsica acts as an ideal accompaniment to both courses, with its gentle sparkle offering a refreshing fizz amongst its light and fruity texture.
For the welcome coup de grace to our fast disappearing appetites, a black chocolate and cédrat mousse is brought to the table, complete with a Limoncellu cream that compliments the citric overtones of the cédrat to a tee. Our old friend thyme rears its pretty head again in the ‘Farigoule Savarin’, which comes with praline ice cream and a crunchy honeycomb and rings the bell on what has been a truly delectable meal.
Written by David Harfield
Date posted: 21/12/2011
