The two terrific blokes responsible for a number of award-winning pubs peppered around London, including The Gun (not long ago reviewed by BT), have now opened yet another gastropub in the West End. Hurrah!
The Angel and Crown is situated on St. Martin’s Lane, surrounded by the hustle and bustle of theatre-goers and the hype of Covent Garden, and yet, as soon as you are seated in the dining room upstairs, you feel a world away from any London commotion.
Rather than enter through the front of the pub – its warm crowd spilling out onto the street, we snuck in through the side door, went straight up the stairs, and were invited into what felt like a drawing room. It was cosy, homely with an open fire, dimly lit, and had large sash windows that framed the cold outside.
We were seated at a table for two that overlooked the Noel Coward Theatre, and were offered still or sparkling water whilst we browsed the extensive wine list and impressive menu. We thought it was best to decide on what we were going to eat before choosing a wine, and after fighting over who got to order the rabbit, we asked our waitress to recommend a suitable wine. She proffered a pinot noir from New Zealand that was light bodied and so perfect for our gamey choices.
After a short wait of people watching and resisting temptations to mock those that were queuing outside the theatre, our starters of soup and scallops arrived. I had chosen the Scallops from the Specials, and they arrived on a bed of peas and lentils with bacon. It was a dish that I could not fault, completely delicious, and one that I’d happily have had as a main too (if it were a little bit larger, of course).
My plus one (let’s call him Jim) ordered the White Onion and Cider soup, which I obviously helped myself to. The texture was just right – it’s always a let down when it’s too thick or too thin, and just before I had the chance to fault it, they brought out a plate of toasted bread to go with it. Phew. Both starters were appropriately portioned and left us nicely warmed up for our mains that arrived only fifteen minutes later – bloody good for a Friday night.
Ooph, were the mains hearty! Jim had ordered the Pheasant and Partridge Pie with Roast Bone Marrow that came cooked how pies should be cooked – with a nice, thick lid and it’s insides oozing out, the roast bone marrow stabbed in the centre. A real blokes dish.
We also ordered (probably a little unnecessarily) Hand Cut Chips and Poppy Seed Onion Rings, and though we only managed a few, they were worth the over-order. Poppy seeds in onion rings – who knew?
I ordered the Braised Rabbit, Grain Mustard, Faggots, Bacon and Peas (I may be small, but I work for Blue Tomato). A massive, manly dish that I couldn’t quite finish, but had a good go at. The rabbit fell apart at the touch of my fork – I could have used a spoon, and the combination of the bacon and the peas and the mustard was superb.
As we were leaving, the post-theatre crowd were coming in for their indulgent finale. Cold though it was in London last Friday night, it was plenty warm in the Angel and Crown, and we couldn’t resist popping downstairs for a quick pint.
Written by Sophie Jones
Date posted: 07/02/2012
