The Hill, nestled on the incline, conveniently 5 minutes between Belsize
Park and Chalk Farm stations is the latest venture from Vancouver-born
Michael Parker (The Commander Porterhouse & Oyster Bar).
This is a venue steeped with history and the new owner has worked hard to
respect that without over-egging it. The dining room feels lived in and the
worn wooden floors tell a story all of their own. Design elements bring what
could be any tired old pub to life and make the space warm, inviting and
immediately comfortable. A gentle nod is given towards local “names” with
items from George Michael and Boy George’s house subtly incorporated into
the overall look.
Billed as “North American Dining with inspiration from the Pacific
Northwest” the menu conjures visions of “too cool for school” hippies
sitting cross-legged, chilling out and eating “The food that God gave us …
man”. And indeed, the big man upstairs couldn’t possibly argue with what
The Hill’s chefs would serve in his name.
This is not a menu for the indecisive as every item shouts “order me”. It’s
almost impossible to decide between a choice of oysters, jumbo prawns or
citrus marinated sashimi for starter. Main course options bring on a whole
new level of indecision – really, how do you choose between
melt-in-the-mouth steaks, a fully loaded burger with red onion chutney or
the delectable gourmet lobster mac & cheese?
The salt-water scallops we eventually opted for tasted scarily like they had
been in the ocean only moments before. The flavour was intense without being
too “fishy” and coupled with a strange sounding (but amazing tasting) side
dish of carrots with mango & sesame seed, this was a real sensation. Deliciously different without trying too hard.
Fillet steak served medium rare was cooked to perfection, holding it’s
juices and allowing the knife to glide through it like butter. Served with
an accompaniment of the very best onion rings we’ve ever had (enormous,
perfectly crispy and ridiculously flavoursome) and chunky chips, this was
steak done properly by people that clearly care about their diners’
enjoyment.
The wine list at The Hill has something for everyone with a solid selection
of good quality bottles at sensible prices. And for those who want to splash
out, there’s a well thought through high end list too.
The Hill works on many levels. The food speaks for itself, the waiting staff
are fantastic and whether you are looking for a romantic meal for 2 or a
relaxed informal group meal, the space somehow just works.
This is one venue we’ll definitely be keeping an eye on and maybe we’ll
review it again in secret – because to be honest, this time round, it was
just too good !
Date posted: 16/02/2012
